Whirling Dervishes

That evening we went to see the Whirling Dervish rite at an ancient caravanserai. A caravansarai is a big building where the caravans on the Spice Route would set up their wares for sale and spend the night. There is a big open air area and also an enclosed area in case of rain or snow. We all filed in and sat aside a small stage.

The lights were dimmed and a mysterious, reverent and sacred aura filled the room. We all held our breath as the musicians entered, one at a time, bowing to the audience. Each musician took his place at one side of the stage and soon sinuous music wafted around the dimmed room. Then the Dervish leader solemnly entered the stage area, slowly, step by step, and bowed to the watchers and musicians. Next each Dervish, dressed in a full-skirted white gown topped by a black coat, and wearing an odd cone-shaped brown hat, entered. First one Dervish entered, slowly to the music, step by step, taking off his black coat, bowing to the leader and taking his place at one side of the stage. Then the next, and the next, until all five were on stage. In concert the Dervishes rose from their pillowed seats and bowed to their leader. Then the leader began to recite the principals of the sect.

As he finished his presentation first one Dervish began to spin and move around the perimeter of the stage, then the next, and the next, until all five were spinning, white gowns floating out from their legs, one hand lifted up to heaven and the other held palm-down to earth. This position is symbolic of the messages of God moving through the Dervish to humankind.

The Dervishes spun and spun, each one in a corner and one in the center. Then, after about 15 minutes, they began to rotate around the stage, still spinning, to the next corner. Their spinning was very smooth, almost as if they were floating. Some of the Dervishes had their eyes closed and some had their eyes open, but seemed to be in a trance. I am not sure that they were seeing anything. They had their rotation process well-choreographed and they moved from corner to corner and into the center without a glitch. The leader continued his recitation of the beliefs of the sect as the Dervishes spun and spun, occasionally floating on to a new corner or the center position. This went on for an hour and none of the Dervishes lost their balance or even seemed to be dizzy. As each Dervish slowed and stopped spinning and returned to his place at the side of the stage the leader recited from the Koran and then said a prayer for the peace of the souls of the Prophets and all believers. The hour-long process went by so fast. It was quite interesting to watch. I think we all felt a little disoriented and dizzy ourselves as we left the caravansarai and got back on the bus.

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